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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all,

I thought i would pop in and say hello, and maybe also ask a question or 2 on the way.
So after 6 months of ownership i have only had 1 major issue with the car and that was when the crank decided to eat itself up, luckly it happened just as i was coming down the drive way at home, so it didnt leave me stranded.
Video of what no one wants to hear coming from the mighty v6 oil burner.

So engine was inspected and sump full of oil and swarf, main bearing picked up on crank. So replacment engine was fitted and touch wood all is well... Well as can be as now owning a JLR product i thought i would purchase and autel diagnostics reader, and i do have 1 error code strored which is permanent.
186714

Does anyone have a pointer what is the likely issue with the P0336 code, no lights on dash and car drives as normal.

Un engine related i also have an issue with the rear drivers door unlocking. If the car is locked and i walk up to that door and open it keyless it will unlock and open. If i unlock the car with the fob then i cant open the back door, so the only way to get it open is keyless only. If in the back seat, to open the door i have to move the latch from unlock first as it doesnt seem to do that automatically.. Will this me some module or just a door panel off and a lube job?

Finally, i will like to ask a favour of the Sunday club if possible. Would one of the members drive my car and tell me if it does drive correctly (I am based in Stoke). The power delivery seems strange (it was like this with the previous engine also so nothing to do with the replacement engine thats fitted). I wont use sport or dynamic mode as all it wants to do is down gear and into the red line with out riding the lovely torque wave it should produce. When using the paddles its ok, but just seems to lack the pull i would expect, then other times in normal driving mode you can go to pull off and it shoots off like a scolded cat (unintentionally), so i know its in there somewhere.

Sorry about the long winded post and thanks.
 

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Jesus...that video just made me feel a whole lot better about the noise my engine is currently making. But sorry to hear about your woes. Was there any unusual noise before the crank failed? (like this: video)

When in "S" mode my car also goes pretty high up in the revs, which I think is fairly normal as although torque may be a little higher at say 2,000rpm, it's peak power which it will be aiming for which I think is nearer 4,000rpm. There's a throttle reset you can do with the Autel tool which may be worth a try, or I think there's a way to reset the transmission so it learns your driving style (I think you hold the accelerator pedal down and turn the ignition on for a while) but I'm not sure if this is actually a thing.

Another thought could be your DPF. As it fills up you will start to lose some power and straight after a regen it is fairly noticeable the power you regain. Could be worth checking your soot levels.
 

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MY 2012 XF S Portfolio Ultimate Black
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Sorry to hear this. That was like the issue I have. You probably had oil dilution.
crankshaft sensor as you know is on the back of the crankshaft and the ring has 60 something magnets on it. If sensor is gone or ring is not installed correctly, this is what you will get. It could also be a loose sensor or some metallic shavings left behind.

Does it have any symptoms?
did the engine come with any kind of warranty?

for gear changes, it will adopt to your way of driving in drive mode. To verify all you need is to reset that. So long as it is normal in dynamic mode, all you need is to change your driving style or use paddle shifts in D when you want transmission change gears. It will learn it over time and adopt.
 

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Hello & welcome, stay safe.

A thought to add to Hamed’s, how long is it since the engine was replaced? I’m wondering if for some reason the gearbox was reset as well so it is in that learning phase, maybe.
 

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Hi, sounds like you have a faulty rear door lock if this is the case make sure you get the correct part, most traders on the likes of eBay don't know the difference between keyless entry locks and non keyless. I'm sure there is a write up on replacing the lock somewhere on here. Phil
 

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I would clear the fault codes and see if they came back, they could’ve been stored from the old engine.
As for the door, sounds like duff motors in the lock. If you’re handy with fiddly, annoying stuff you can change these motors yourself, costs around £15 from ebay
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Was there any unusual noise before the crank failed?
Engine sounded fine, before this happened very smooth and quiet.
I'll also have a look at the throttle reset, it maybe the car is driving normally and its the way they are, thats why i was after someone who knows these to drive it and say all is normal. :)
I also hade the torque pro app setup and monitored the dpf levels and regens which was usefull.
Sorry to hear this. That was like the issue I have. You probably had oil dilution.
It was always a possabilty, thats why i tried to keep an eye on dpf levels and regens, also oil level with the torque app as i wanted to avoid oil dilution. The car had an oil change 2500 miles before the failure.
Engine runs fine, smouth and quiet with no issue. I did get a 3 month warranty with it, so i may bat the P0336 back to the garage.
Engine was replaced just over 2 months ago, but it drives excactly the same as it did before it went, so it has always had this sort of none linear power delivery.
Thanks for the pointers on the door motor, i will get one ordered and have a fiddle about with it.
Cheers guys.
 

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Engine sounded fine, before this happened very smooth and quiet.
I'll also have a look at the throttle reset, it maybe the car is driving normally and its the way they are, thats why i was after someone who knows these to drive it and say all is normal. :)
I also hade the torque pro app setup and monitored the dpf levels and regens which was usefull.

It was always a possabilty, thats why i tried to keep an eye on dpf levels and regens, also oil level with the torque app as i wanted to avoid oil dilution. The car had an oil change 2500 miles before the failure.
Engine runs fine, smouth and quiet with no issue. I did get a 3 month warranty with it, so i may bat the P0336 back to the garage.
Engine was replaced just over 2 months ago, but it drives excactly the same as it did before it went, so it has always had this sort of none linear power delivery.
Thanks for the pointers on the door motor, i will get one ordered and have a fiddle about with it.
Cheers guys.
I would take it back to the garage within the warranty period. Gearbox should come off to access the crankshaft sensor. Hopefully it’s just a loose connection. I assume you have cleared the DTC and it returns? It could be logged when they were putting the engine in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have cleared the code, but it comes straight back and is flagged as a permanent code.. I shall have a chat to the garage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I would also like to mention the garage that supplied the car to me Deeside Motors have been great about the whole issue. They took the car in when the crank went and gave me a car to use whilst they sourced and fitted a replacment engine under their own warranty / cost (The replcment engine had done half the mileage of the previous engine).
Just contacted them again (bet they love me) and they will book it in to investigate, saying the gearbox will need to be removed to do this. So credit where its due..
 

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I have cleared the code, but it comes straight back and is flagged as a permanent code.. I shall have a chat to the garage.
If it is the sensor it self, they can change it without taking sensor of. But the ring needs to remove the transmission. Granted it’s very straightforward job in a garage. Took me 1hr all in to remove it as a DIYer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If it is the sensor it self, they can change it without taking sensor of. But the ring needs to remove the transmission. Granted it’s very straightforward job in a garage. Took me 1hr all in to remove it as a DIYer.
I thought the gearbox had to come out to change the sensor?
 

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I thought the gearbox had to come out to change the sensor?
There is a small window to replace crankshaft sensor. But the ring is sitting behind the flywheel and needs transmission to come off.
 
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