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Discussion Starter #821
They're the OE, well that's what they've said and the original front ones I pulled out of the calipers certainly aren't steel, they're far too light to be steel
 

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Oh well, every day a school day.
 
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Discussion Starter #823
Oh well, every day a school day.
When he gave me material options I was very confused...

The rears are definitely steel and the spare caliper I have is not from an R (single piston) and that is steel, as it has surface rust on the face. Looks like the R has its own piston material, might look into why ATE use it. Bit of bedtime reading 😂
 

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Discussion Starter #824
Seems aluminium is becoming more common place as it is lightweight and cheap, was for high end calipers and as with all automotive technology, eventually filters down.

Adonised aluminium and stainless steel seem to be the top 2 materials used, however, as with everything there's a lot of debate, especially for those who track their cars and put their components through the associated strains of doing so.

There are also composite plastic ones that aren't affected by the environment they're in supposedly, but then you'd think they'd be in everything of they were that good and a composite plastic is unlikely to be more costly than any of the other materials used...

Anyway, I have seen some basic home tests that are easy to perform to see if the aluminium is adonised or not, will try that at some point on the damaged piston. Will give an indication as to what material is being used, may be a pointless exercise but I'm intrigued now...
 

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I wouldn't touch anodised aluminium with a barge pole if I could help it tbh.

Not the same operating conditions granted, but harsh all the same - we use it for mounting brackets and some hyd manifolds at work.

Soon as its scratched - it just starts breaking down, really quickly.

I'd much rather stainless steel. A4 or 316L grade at that.
 

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Discussion Starter #826
As long as they're the same as OE they'll be fine, the only issues with the pistons are what I've inflicted during this process.

Not contesting your point as it is well out of my scope of knowledge, one thing I've discovered is through aluminium being a better heat conductor, in extreme environments it causes brake fade via heating the brake fluid.

Now I won't be tracking the car, nor do I feel I drive in a way that would cause excessive heat build up in the braking system. However, as brake fluid is relatively cheap, I may as well get a higher grade of brake fluid for the sake of proofing the car. The cost is negligible when compared to other areas, and the lifespan of it means I may only change it once again in my ownership
 

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Also, the XFR front brake calipers are aluminium while the rears are steel.
I suppose they had to make those ginormous front calipers from ali otherwise the weight would pull the front end down to the ground!
 

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Discussion Starter #828
Are the rears definitely steel? I only ask because I had them blasted months ago and they've sat exposed to moisture and don't even have the slightest hint of flash corrosion.

I'm hoping to have them in etch shortly 😂
 

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Yep, I tested mine with a magnet.
 
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Discussion Starter #830
So went for a 2.7 mile drive, then checked the level:



Full to brim, so the level went from being to low to read, to half full to full, all with 0.5l of oil, the dipstick range should be 1l itself. Wonderful, I am trying to see if I can get easy access to live data from oil level, so I can compare to the displayed readings on more than one occasion.

I may just buy the sensor and change it at oil change time for peace of mind, as it is only £40. Which is astoundingly cheap i think...
 

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So went for a 2.7 mile drive, then checked the level:



Full to brim, so the level went from being to low to read, to half full to full, all with 0.5l of oil, the dipstick range should be 1l itself. Wonderful, I am trying to see if I can get easy access to live data from oil level, so I can compare to the displayed readings on more than one occasion.

I may just buy the sensor and change it at oil change time for peace of mind, as it is only £40. Which is astoundingly cheap i think...
I use a cheap wifi obd2 dongle and free to try app called “car scanner” on iPhone. It gives you live oil level reading. Minimum is 55.3mm. Typical 58mm. Max 64mm. Obviously yoi can use SDD as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #833
Little treat arrived in the post:



Certainly cannot knock the service given by Biggred! I have things other than car work planned this week now, so unsure on how things will progress with the brakes...
 

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Have you seen the giant pistons on the mighty CPR?
With the driving force of a thousand horse, well you know what pistons are.
Or you think you do but you've yet to learn the power that drives that p***k.
Of the work that's done on a non-stop run by a guy like Deadeye Dick.

Someone says "piston" and this extract from a certain ballad always springs to mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #837
Have you seen the giant pistons on the mighty CPR?
With the driving force of a thousand horse, well you know what pistons are.
Or you think you do but you've yet to learn the power that drives that p***k.
Of the work that's done on a non-stop run by a guy like Deadeye Dick.

Someone says "piston" and this extract from a certain ballad always springs to mind.
Straight over my head but sounds fun 😂
 

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OMG are we that old!!!!
 
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