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Many of those codes may well be due to low voltage in the past. Once you have a record of them all, go through and clear them all. See if that makes any difference. Probably won't allow the car to start, but see which codes come back. I trust the car battery is over 12.4 volts? Then rescan and see which codes have returned. I'd suggest you check for any water ingress and check all the plug/socket connections on the CJB (in your front passenger footwell) and the rear junction box/boot (trunk) area. CJB water ingress isn't a known issue on your year car, but worth checking.
 

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XF Sportbrake MY 2013 3.0 DS
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Cutlea01 was faster :) . Just note the codes, delete them and try to start again. Check and note the codes again. As cutlea01 wrote, all codes could be linked to low voltage and the battery exchange.

Dirk
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Many of those codes may well be due to low voltage in the past. Once you have a record of them all, go through and clear them all. See if that makes any difference. Probably won't allow the car to start, but see which codes come back. I trust the car battery is over 12.4 volts? Then rescan and see which codes have returned. I'd suggest you check for any water ingress and check all the plug/socket connections on the CJB (in your front passenger footwell) and the rear junction box/boot (trunk) area. CJB water ingress isn't a known issue on your year car, but worth checking.
Hey I refreshed it all of the codes stayed but I put on the brake light switch sensor and my brake lights don’t come on when I press on the brake should I get a new one if so if I do get a new one and it doesn’t work what should I look to solve that problem next? Because I just bought brand new brake lights for the car
 

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Brake light switch is a known fail on these models. Get a new one (not a used one), they're not expensive. They fit easily, bayonet fitting, turn a 1/4 and pull it out, but you need to be a contortionist and upside down to reach it! Once swapped, see where things are to try to start the car. The other thing to try, is pushing the brake pedal, REALLY hard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Brake light switch is a known fail on these models. Get a new one (not a used one), they're not expensive. They fit easily, bayonet fitting, turn a 1/4 and pull it out, but you need to be a contortionist and upside down to reach it! Once swapped, see where things are to try to start the car. The other thing to try, is pushing the brake pedal, REALLY hard.
Thank you yeah I put 2 feet down on the peddle last time and this time but nothing popped up I’m just hoping it’s the sensor and not the wiring because then I’d have to figure out where to find a wiring diagram for it
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Brake light switch is a known fail on these models. Get a new one (not a used one), they're not expensive. They fit easily, bayonet fitting, turn a 1/4 and pull it out, but you need to be a contortionist and upside down to reach it! Once swapped, see where things are to try to start the car. The other thing to try, is pushing the brake pedal, REALLY hard.
Hey so I recently replaced the brake light sensor the brake light comes on but the car still doesn’t crank any of the other codes
Brake light switch is a known fail on these models. Get a new one (not a used one), they're not expensive. They fit easily, bayonet fitting, turn a 1/4 and pull it out, but you need to be a contortionist and upside down to reach it! Once swapped, see where things are to try to start the car. The other thing to try, is pushing the brake pedal, REALLY hard.
hey so I replaced the module good news is the brake lights came on the bad news is I still can’t figure out why the car won’t start let alone crank when I use the start button anymore ideas? Could any of the other codes be it like the starter disable code?
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Same location behind the wheel arch liner passengers side if you have a left hand drive vehicle. You will see a red cap open it up and check the condition.
I do have a left drive ok thank you so much in the morning it will be checked vividly also the other side is underneath the car correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
The first picture is inside the car where it passes through to the wheel arch area (second picture)
Hey so something weird I changed the brake light sensor and cleared the code it went away and the brake lights started working again but now it’s not working anymore and the code came back also I checked the where you told me I removed the carpet liner but the was more that I couldn’t pull off
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
You can pull that foam insulation back more it’s more likely to be corroded on the outside behind the wheel arch liner. Did you fit a new brake light switch?
Recently replaced it yesterday actually and it just stopped working today and I got a look behind it with my flashlight I just couldn’t take a good picture it looks to seem good like brand new wiring
 

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XF Sportbrake MY 2013 3.0 DS
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Damn beast! Did you delete all the DTCs and try cranking again? What are the re-occuring DTCs?
Still seems to be a control module issue. From my point of view.

Dirk
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Damn beast! Did you delete all the DTCs and try cranking again? What are the re-occuring DTCs?
Still seems to be a control module issue. From my point of view.

Dirk
That’s what I’m thinking at this point because I deleted all of them put a new brake sensor in and it worked one day all the codes came back and the brake lights stopped coming on after I pressed the brakes again
 

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XF Sportbrake MY 2013 3.0 DS
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What exactly means "worked one day" ? Ingnition, cranking or only the brake lights?
If I got it right, your are living in Australia. So my next answer will probably be delayed due to several hours time shift to Germany.

Dirk
 
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